ROSE TONES EPOXY RESIN CHARCUTERIE BOARD TUTORIAL!

https://youtu.be/Cs1YDpEQsU0

Hey guys, I'm going to show you how I did this beautiful charcuterie board charcuterie wondering how you say I can use a snack board, snack platter tray cutting board, or any of those words. Still, these are popular whether it's epoxy or not. In general, the grazing boards charcuterie boards are such a fun thing.

They're great as gifts. They're great for putting all your pretty food out for a gathering or a party, making it more fancy and elegant I can't get enough of them. I love these boards, and I feel like if you're doing one like this, it's always hard to get the edges to look good I've tried painting them first; I've tried doing a layer of epoxy on edge first, and then do another layer on the top.

I never really got it to look suitable for this one. I tried taping off the edge and peeling off the tape so that I didn't have to worry about it, and I like how it turned out. It looks friendly and professional and finished. There are no weird spots where there's not enough epoxy or color, and I didn't have to worry about drips. This was an excellent way to do this. If you guys are interested in Seeing how I did this charcuterie board, let's get into the video.

All right, guys starting with this beautiful cutting board, I found it is for only 12.99. TJ Maxx is where it's at to find great prices on boards like this that are done already. You need to sand them a little to prep them for the epoxy. It adheres well and will not chip off of the board. You could sand it more if you want. That's what I do. I'm taking some electrical tape. I used this kind because it gives me a nice clean line, is easy to work with, and won't tear easily.

Lining it up and taped it down, then I taped off the bottom with some bigger tape so that if there were any drips, it would come off quickly with the tape. You are using these leveling feet from DIY epoxy to set my board. These are nice because they spin. You can level anything you're wor. None of your colors or designs that you do like drip off. I've done that before, and if you make it level, it stays put where you want it to last and won't all run to one side or the other make sure your work surface is level.

You are mixing my epoxy. It's a little thicker, but you can get it done in one coat. If you want anything like this, you can do multiple layers, but if you're going to do one coat, this will allow you to do that and let you have enough color where you don't have see-through spots or spots where it's too thin.

It is an accent, and only do a little of it. I was now pouring off some of the epoxy to make my colors. The first color is like a dusty pink rose; in the second one, I added some white and that one's white. That one is opal mica powder and some gold mica powder. I like to have my main colors similar when doing boards like this. So that is why I did the rose color and then the rose color with some white to make it a little bit lighter.

Then I'm drizzling on the primary dusty rose color and adding in a little bit of that lighter rose color, and here's some of the white, and I try to keep things going in the same direction without doing, you know, wavy lines the same throughout. I make some lines come off each other like there's no rhyme or reason to what I'm doing, making it flow together without literally being wavy lines that are the same across.

Here's some of the pearl. The pearl or opal. Why do I always call it pearl? The opal adds a nice dimension to it. It gives it this realistic-looking sparkle without being like glitter, and its color is lovely. It looked nice with the rose tones I was doing, and I can never do a project with epoxy if I use mica or opal mica. Now use some of the gold mica to add a few accents. The gold is if you're doing it on lighter colors like this. It will show up darker, almost like a dark brown, when you're not seeing it in the sunlight, but when you see it in the light, it does shine that bright, beautiful gold. I like to use.

Then using the heat gun to move around the color and blend the edges and make the gold mica float and do the incredible effects that it does when you use heat on it and see how the fur on the front line looks like a wave-like that it's up to you what you like. Still, I move everything around a little bit, give it some extra dimension, and then spray some alcohol. It helps break up the color and give it those little spots and speckles.

It needed a little more. Feel free to play with it and move things around with the artistry epoxy. Depending on your temperature, you have 45 minutes to an hour, but you can work with it for quite a while. Don't be afraid to change things and add them as needed. I like to start with less, and then I can always add more as you see here, I'm using the heat gun again. It doesn't, you know, affect it that you've already used the heat gun.

Then add more alcohol, then, with my finger, wipe the edges to get a lot of the epoxy off the tape because what's going to happen if you let it go entirely over the tape? You'll risk the epoxy peeling and chipping off if you take it off when it's dry. So I wiped it off a couple of times, even when it was pretty tacky. I kept wiping it off of the tape. You can see how the alcohol makes it get these cool little spots and move everything. Then taking the tape off, you can see I had scraped off most of the epoxy when it was still a little tacky, and I was not in the camera frame that well because you can't see what I'm doing but removing the tape.

And this was about six to eight hours after I poured this. The epoxy is still a little bit soft, with some that got on the underneath. I would like to know how it did that. Still, I had it taped. If you have this, if the epoxy hasn't fully cured yet, you can take alcohol and rub a lot of it off, or if it is cured, you can sand it off, but this is easier if you catch it at the right time. So this charcuterie board was finished, and that is it for this video, guys. Thank you much for watching; I will see you next. Bye